I just updated the photo gallery “Mix – Various climbing” with a few new photos.
Again nothing turned out as planned… The plan was to try the Liongrat Ridge on the Matterhorn together with my old childhood friend Tomas. Sadly Tomas had to call the climb off in the last minute, leaving me without a climbing partner.
Luckily I had booked a week after our planned Matterhorn trip to climb together with Krister Jonsson, a Swedish mountain guide. I already knew Krister from last year when we climbed the Mittelliegi Ride on the Eiger together. We had a lot of fun on Eiger and other mountains for a week. The first “Matterhorn” week was instead spent in the Mont Blanc area, hiking and doing some acclimatization scrambles.
On Monday, September 8th, Krister and I met up in Chamonix and headed for Aiguille du Chardonnet, a 3,824 m high mountain in the Mont Blanc range. After some a few hours of hiking, we reached the newly renovated Albert Premier Hut. The alarm was set to 01:45 AM and one hour later we were ready and headed for the goal, the Arête Forbes on Chardonet. Arête Forbes is the ridge to the left. The route traverses the summit and follows the right hand ridge down to the glacier.
This climb really had it all; thunder and lightning from the Aosta side of the mountain during the approach, later snowfall, clouds and finally blue skies! A delicate bergschrund, steep ice and snow, abseiling’s, somewhat awkward moves, at some passages the ridge narrowed to a thin exposed ridge. To sum it up, a really nice and fun climb!
Later during the week, Krister and I climbed several other routes, including the famous giant tooth, Dent du Géant and the narrow rocky ridge on Aiguille d’Entrèves!
As we say in here in sweden, make a cross in the roof(!), but I’ve actually just made some updates in the photo section. That without a delay of another two years :-)
The new photography galleries are:
/ Per Jerberyd
Well… It wasn’t just the other day that I last published a post here. I just realized it’s more than two years ago!
Today, when I’m home alone, sick with fever, I found some inspiration and thought it was about time to find the time to update something here!
And what has happened since 2012… A lot, but not that much climbing. However, I’ve had the oppurtunity to get out and summit a few big mountains like the Mont Blanc, Eiger & Mönch…
Jonna and I are on a ice climbing trip to Dalarna and Trängslet.
Right now I’m sitting and writing this at the hostel Tre Björnar (Three Bears) in Älvdalen that we’re staying at. Tomorrow it’s sunday and time to go home to the kids.
This weekend is probabaly the last chance of ice climbing here for this season. It’s been warm lately. Really warm for this time of year with a temepratures reaching plus 10 degrees celsius. I think this is the first ice climbing trip that I never have had forzen hands :-)
To sum up: Jonna and I had great time! Ice climbing is fun! A lot of fun!
What to do in 2012?
What to climb in 2012?
* Alpine! – Try the big snow dome above Chamonix called Mont Blanc. Hopefully this time together with Jonna (it’s a mess I haven’t done it yet…). Hopefully a bunch of good friends will come along as well :-) When being acclimatised on Mont Blanc, the plan is to head to Monte Cervino (Matterhorn) and make another attempt on Liongrat. This time with my old childhood friend Tomas Ericsson. Next year it’s four years since I last tried Liongrat with Anders Grawin and ten years since my first visit. Liongrat follow the right ridge on the photo. If someone else will come along, Jonna might climb here as well. We don’t want to tie ourselves togehter on any risky projects…
* Ice! – Hopefully Jonna and I can puzzle in one or two ice climbing trips this season, perhaps Trängslet and Rjukan?!
* Rock! – It’s about time I and Jonna get back in shape and try our old projects @ Träskberget @ home. If we get the oppurtunity, hopefully a quick visit to Norway and bigger walls.
* Plastic! – Indoor climbing is fun! Really fun if you compare going to the normal gym. Our goal is to train indoor at Klätterverket or K2/Klättercentret at least once a week.
Dagmar hit Norway hard! It was said to be the worst storm in 30 years…
When Dagmar reached us at the east coast of Sweden it had weakened but the strange wet and warm weather without any frozen ground made the trees break and fall. Our house lost electrical power at 3:am on monday morning, and it was not until today, 40 hours later that we were plugged in again.
On monday morning, Rasmus and I packed the Stihl chainsaw in the Honda and drowe around in the neigborhood to have a look. Trees had fallen here and there… Servral had already been removed, but when we drowe towards Dyvik we where stopped by a tree that had fallen across the road. We removed it and cleared the road… …Just to be stopped by a power cable that had fallen over the road just some hundred meters away.
Below are some photos from this little mini adventure…
Jonna and I had a great visit to London!
We had time to both meet old friends, visit a great mountaineering lecture at the Royal Geographic Society, climb and do some christmas shopping as well :-)
On thursday evening we went to the Royal Geographic Society and listened to a lecture about the Eiger North Face. The presentators were no less than Sir Chris Bonington and Ueli Steck.
Chris proved to be the fantastic lecturer I’ve heard that he is. He told the story about his struggle with the Eiger during his early career, and how he finally became the first Brit to climb the -38 route. He continued with the story about the “race” to make the first ascent of the direct route up the face, a classic story that ended in tragedy when John Harlin fell to his death.
Ueli, one of the new generation Eiger climbers told about how he after 35 acents of the Eiger North Face following diffrent routes made his speed record. He also told about his Alp North Face Trilogy and ending with his 10,5 hour solo ascent of Shisha Pangmas south face. Nice lecture with stunning photos and filming.
On friday afternoon we met my old friend Micke Collin at the climbing gym called The Castle. It was an OK place. Micke proved in shape and climbed three 6c and one 6c+. Really nice to meet Micke again, it was a long time since we last climbed or met (think it was in 2008?). He told us that nowdays he often spends his weekends trad-climbing in the Peak District.
We’ll be back some day to listen to some other lecture at the Royal Geographic Society – a nice and classic place!
Today, I took a day off from work to visit Arsenalen, Sweden’s Defence Vehicle Museum located in Strängnäs.
Erlier I had promised my son Rasmus to take him there, then he got sick with chickenpox and time just passed by… My father, Lars-Erik followed by as well. The Strängnäs armored regiment is the place where he made his military service a long time ago, so he had some old stories to tell Rasmus and me :-)
I’ve had too much to do lately and lacked the inspiration and energy to write anything…
…Now something positive: Jonna and I have booked a trip to London next week to listen to Chris Bonington and Ueli Steck at the Royal Geographical Society.
Unfamilar to Bonington and Steck?
– Sir Christian Bonington is a living mountineering legend with many many expeditions behind him. Still, soon at the age of 80, Bonington is climbing and traveling all over the world… http://bonington.com/bio/
– Ueli Steck. A strong and extremely fast speedclimber. For example: Eiger North Wall solo in 2h47Min, Mattrhorn North Wall solo in 1h56Min, Grand Jorasses solo in 2h21Min, Piolet d’Or“ winner in 2009… http://pda.uelisteck.ch/de/stories.html
The lecture is about the great Eigerwand:
Of all the great challenges of the Alps, the North Wall of the Eiger stands supreme, both for the richness of its history and for the dramas, many of them all too tragic, that have taken place from the early attempts in the thirties to the present day.
Chris Bonington experienced this directly in his various attempts and final success in making the first British ascent and in his involvement in the dramatic story of extreme climbing and the extraordinary media circus that accompanied the first ascent of the Eiger Direct in the winter of 1966.
The intervening years have seen great achievements, culminating in the supreme performance of athletic excellence and technical skill that accompanied Ueli Steck¹s incredible solo ascent in 2008, when he set a new speed record on the Eiger North Face, climbing the Heckmair Route in a staggering 2 hours, 47 minutes and 33 seconds. In doing so he smashed the previous record of 3 hours and 45 minutes, set by himself in February 2007.
Eiger has followed me all along since I started with mountaineering. A dream is that I one day feel strong enough to try the classic Heckmair route…