Posted by: sweclimber | November 23, 2011

London next!

I’ve had too much to do lately and lacked the inspiration and energy to write anything…

…Now something positive: Jonna and I have booked a trip to London next week to listen to Chris Bonington and Ueli Steck at the Royal Geographical Society.

Unfamilar to Bonington and Steck?
– Sir Christian Bonington is a living mountineering legend with many many expeditions behind him. Still, soon at the age of 80, Bonington is climbing and traveling all over the world…

– Ueli Steck. A strong and extremely fast speedclimber. For example: Eiger North Wall solo in 2h47Min,  Mattrhorn North Wall solo in 1h56Min, Grand Jorasses solo in 2h21Min, Piolet d’Or“ winner in 2009…

The lecture is about the great Eigerwand:

Of all the great challenges of the Alps, the North Wall of the Eiger stands supreme, both for the richness of its history and for the dramas, many of them all too tragic, that have taken place from the early attempts in the thirties to the present day.

Chris Bonington experienced this directly in his various attempts and final success in making the first British ascent and in his involvement in the dramatic story of extreme climbing and the extraordinary media circus that accompanied the first ascent of the Eiger Direct in the winter of 1966.

The intervening years have seen great achievements, culminating in the supreme performance of athletic excellence and technical skill that accompanied Ueli Steck¹s incredible solo ascent in 2008, when he set a new speed record on the Eiger North Face, climbing the Heckmair Route in a staggering 2 hours, 47 minutes and 33 seconds. In doing so he smashed the previous record of 3 hours and 45 minutes, set by himself in February 2007.

Eiger has followed me all along since I started with mountaineering. A dream is that I one day feel strong enough to try the classic Heckmair route…


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